Category Archives: Alderney

Alderney Beaches -a personal view

Here is the last of my summer holiday theme on Alderney. Alderney’s fantastic and undiscovered beaches!

The first long sweeping sandy bay you see by air as you are coming into land at Alderney’s quaint airport is Braye Bay. Sheltered by the harbour and famous Victorian Breakwater it is a haven for sailing boats and so as you stroll along its half a mile stretch in the sunshine, there is a stunning view in any direction from Fort Albert on your right at the mouth of the harbour, to the Breakwater itself. If there is a breeze you can always find a spot nestled amongst the grassy dunes or at the old jetty, The Douglas Quay alongside The Braye Beach hotel’s veranda. 

It would be unfortunate to visit the island without making the effort to walk on passed Fort Albert and on towards Saye Bay (pronounced Soy like the sauce I have recently been told) Those fortunate enough to be camping nearby can enjoy this stunning bay, where the Black rocks are popular for fishing. This has its own natural protection from any sea breezes with rocks jutting out from either end of the pale sand in a horseshoe shape.

You are spoilt for choice as you walk over the ridge or under the tunnel from the campsite to Corblets Bay. There are some well positioned benches where you can enjoy the view of the Lighthouse and bay, a good spot to eat a picnic bought in the baker in St Annes. This is the more isolated 

end of the island and the coastal path to Longis from the other side of the Lighthouse is well worth the effort. For those of you less strenuous you can cut off the corner, taking the road passing the War Memorial and through the golf course. Here there are wonderful views of Braye down on your left and Longis Bay on your right.

Longis Bay is another sweeping sandy bay with Fort de Raz as a centrepiece, with its causeway at low tide. You might think that the sea defences here are quite dramatic until you look into the history and realise that the protective wall, a suntrap and reflector, was built by the Germans during their occupation of the island during the last war. It is near Longis Bay, next to the small garden centre, don’t expect Dobbies here, that you should find The Old Barn Restaurant for Mediterranean style ambiance and refreshments. (It is opening again soon)

Walking behind the garden centre and up towards Essex Castle you can follow the coast cliff top path all the way to  Telegraph Bay. When I was a child it was open to the public but the walk down became too dangerous and it was closed. This is unfortunate because at low tide the little sandy coves below are very beautiful. It could also be because the danger of being cut off by the tide and the difficulty of access makes it too unsafe to restore.  Having struggled down the recently rebuilt steps at Petit Bot Bay on Guernsey and been rewarded tenfold by reaching the wonderful bay below, in some ways it seems a shame that we cannot now reach Telegraph Bay safely. Nevertheless the view from the top is reward enough and close by you can look out towards Les Etac and the gannets colony.

Platte Saline and Crabby Bay look out over towards the Swinge and without the protection of the Breakwater you are open to the elements here. The contrast though, on this side of the island has its own beauty, with the rough inhospitable waters of the Swinge along to Fort Clonque, an imposing fort with a causeway which is also easy to spot as your time on Alderney has come to an end and you take off once more.

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ALDERNEY- WHERE TO EAT? A PERSONAL VIEW

Eating is subjective! As I exclaimed in the staffroom yesterday when trying to concentrate on my paperwork, having ‘enjoyed’ crispbread and ham for lunch, ‘I love food!’

Eating on Alderney is a treat although, on our recent visit, our choice of venues was rather limited by my lovely but conservative, elderly parents. We ate at our hotel, The Harbour Lights on two evenings, enjoying superb meals which boasted of being locally caught, farmed or produced wherever possible. No mean feat on an island three miles long and one and a half miles wide. Fresh fish- mouth watering sea bass and lemon sole, duck and gammon, all with a tiny carbon footprint! (that’s the pigs not the fish?) What more could you ask for? Feeling quite full after ample portions from the generous and talented chef, some of us enjoyed the locally produced ice cream, but the menu was wide and catered for many tastes. We didn’t eat out on the new terraces with a view of Braye Bay, although we did enjoy a coffee and a drink there after the meal.

I had to book three weeks in advance for us to dine at The Braye Chippy and none of us were disappointed. A light hearted evening was enjoyed by our party, joined by friends who live on Alderney, and having waited two years for the experience (last year we waited until staying on the island to book and were too late!) the food exceeded our expectations. You can take your own wine, which we didn’t know about, but fortunately our island friends came to the rescue there. I cannot answer for the others but my plaice was delicious, so much so that i’m now on crispbread for my sins!  

On our other evening we took a nostalgic walk to The Marais Hall. A relative, who still lives on Alderney and I don’t wish to embarrass him by sharing his name, used to run it, and we spent many a happy evening there when I was young, odd since my parents rarely go to a pub here in England. The food is reasonably priced and very good. I enjoyed a curry but others in the party chose steak pie and fish pie. On another occasion we enjoyed their wonderful fish soup, a hearty lunch to sustain you for a long afternoon walk (or a nap!)

We also enjoyed a couple of lovely light lunches at Jack’s at the bottom of Victoria Street, where it was pleasant to eat outside, watching the comings and goings up the street. Here I met the friendly group of St Annes bellringers but that’s another story.

On our last visit we partook of several meals at The Moorings, popular with locals (a good sign) and the sailing fraternity. They cater for many tastes from light snacks to a three course meal, which you can eat overlooking Braye Bay.

On previous visits to Alderney we have been delighted by meals at the Belle Vue, spoilt ourselves by a candlelit dinner at The Braye Beach Hotel, enjoyed pub food at The Diver’s- Who is that guy with the headgear sitting in the corner by the way? and discovered the lovely haven of Mediterranean style charm at The Old Barn at Longy Bay(which I am assured is opening again this summer- I do hope so because it is a refreshing place to find whilst exploring the far end of the island. (If not, the island’s Garden Centre close by could always open for tea, like they do here in the UK?) For the time being, if you’re in need of an icecream or drink while exploring the far end of the island, there’s always the camp shop at Saye open in the afternoons. Nothing is far away though. Talking of The Old Barn, we went there when I was young and I remember trying whitebait for the first time and i’m afraid i’m hooked. (If you’ll forgive the pun!)

Back to where to eat on Alderney, we have yet to try the Indian, Pizza or Thai, all of which i’m informed are very good, and there are two select restaurants near the harbour -‘The First and Last’ and ‘Bumps’ if you wish to go out for that treat for a special occasion.

To sum up the eating experience on Alderney, ‘It’s great!’

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Alderney -Where to stay? A personal View

On our visits to Alderney as a family when I was an early teenager we went for self catering, renting a lovely chalet bungalow close to The Harbour Lights and, with breaks of two or three weeks at a time, my memories are of an idylic base for our family holiday! More recently we have enjoyed a wide variety of establishments, each quite different but worthy of note.

Returning in family groups once my sister and I were adults, we first rented some log cabins at Pine Springs. This was ideal since each family had their own base. The well equipt cabins were surrounded by delightful well kept gardens with the focal point of a small swimming pool. We met in the evenings to share an evening meal at one of the many and varied restaurants on the island, although we could easily have purchased fresh local produce to cook for ourselves instead.

On the next visit I returned with my parents and we chose the well positioned Victoria Hotel, a small friendly guest house/hotel situated at the bottom end of Victoria Street, the main shopping street of St Anne’s. This central location in this sleepy town was close to several restaurants for the evening, but during the day it enabled us to purchace picnics at the baker’s for lunch, before heading off in different directions to explore the island.

My parents travelled on their own next, staying at St Anne’s Guest House not far from the museum, an equally pleasant welcoming base close the the town and its amenities.

On our next visit, to celebrate my 50th birthday, we chose a sea view at The Belle Vue overlooking the harbour and Braye Bay. Before a hearty breakfast we could stroll on the Butes and soak up the view of the lovely sweeping bay with various sailing boats bobbing in the protection of the famous Victorian breakwater. We ate excellent meals at the Belle View most nights but, on my actual birthday, my husband treated me to a champagne dinner at The Braye Beach Hotel at the harbour’s edge. (This is a well restored and modernised hotel and restaurant next to the harbour, with a terrace overlooking Braye Bay. We also enjoyed afternoon tea here on our last afternoon this year. A perfect way to end our visit)

Last summer, on our short visit from Guernsey for the book launch of Riduna, we stayed at The Fleet Guest House on Braye Road, enjoying a different view of Braye Bay from our room in the eves of the house. Yet again we had such a friendly warm welcome and a hearty breakfast to set us up for the day ahead. This is a popular base for fishermen, being quite close to the harbour. I chose it because it was quite close to where we think my grandmother lived, although we have been unable to locate the exact place of their Boarding House as listed in the census. (This is the real Harriet Hopkins and not my fictional character)

On our last visit this June we stayed at The Harbour Lights. Yet again the warm welcome we experienced made our stay so pleasurable and the food was superb. Even if you do not stay at the  hotel, it is well worth a visit to have a drink or a meal on the well designed terraced garden. We met the designer and once he’d explained that it was made like the decks of a cruise ship, I could see why. Each layer of these sun trapped terraces was surrounded by beautiful flower beds and the very top terrace boasted of sea views of Braye Bay. The hotel itself has been completely rebuilt in the last couple of years and has been tastefully finished with a small lounge for guests and a bar area, also for non residence. This was perfect for our party of six, including my elderly but very fit parents who, after breakfast were able to pop down to the shop near the harbour to get a morning paper, drink and snack for lunch and set off on long walks around the island. It’s location, so close to Braye Bay and the harbour, was excellent but it was also a fantastic base for walking to Saye, Corblets and Longy Bay. It must be one of the closest hotels to the golf course and, although none on our party actually plays golf, I can recommend the stunning views from the seat on the road which runs through the golf course itself.

Who knows where we will stay next? The temptation will be to return to any of these ‘home from home’ bases but we shall see. The only thing I know for certain is that we will be back!

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