Tag Archives: Channel Islands

April 11, 2013 · 1:06 pm

Alderney ~ A Pause to Reflect Part 1

Last weekend I returned to Alderney, the island of my original inspiration for The Riduna Series. I’m always excited and rarely sleep well the night before a visit. We arrived alongside another couple for whom the experience was a new one and I couldn’t help but feel a trifle concerned for them as we stepped down from Joey, the Aurigny Trilander, to be greeted by strong gusts of icy wind. In fact, by the time we had reached The Harbour Lights Hotel and ventured out for our first stroll, the air was filled with sleety snow. brrrrrr (Even Alderney has not been spared from this severe and enduring winter)

First we trudged down to Braye Beach and breathed in the sea air, or at least tried to as it rushed through us, but the beauty of the bay surmounted the weather and we were still glad to be back. Next we headed up to the town of St Anne and after browsing along the shop fronts and into the Information Centre we bumped into an old friend, who suggested we acted more sensibly and retreat into The Georgian. Once in the warmth of the pub, a bubbling hub of island life, we relaxed and caught up on all the news and gossip, meeting another friend on her way out, too.

That evening we dined at The Harbour Lights. The duck I had was divine. My husband had onion soup followed by Gnocci, which he enjoyed too, although he was amused by the name. Compliments to the chef!

We slept soundly, but our hopes for better weather were dashed by warnings of gale force winds. Actually the

Fort Tourgis Alderney

se didn’t materialise, but it was certainly very windy. Not being people to be put off by inclement weather  (once we spend a week camping in the Cornish rain in August and on another occasion paddled in Wellington Boots in a February Yorkshire sea) we donned an extra layer under our waterproofs, though it barely rained as it happened, and headed towards the old harbour, walking along Crabby Bay, through to Platte  Saline and up the road beside Fort Tourgis.

It wasn’t hard to imagine ship wrecks on the treacherous rocks  surrounding the island of Burhou, the puffin sanctuary to our left. We had hoped to take a boat trip around the island. Maybe next time. We took the long route, passed the path to Fort Clonque (a place a group can hire as an unusual tidal holiday home) and round by the airport, before pausing for lunch at The Marais Hall, where the fish soup is an institution..a must at some point during our stay. Delicious!

It was Friday and an island friend had booked a meal at The Braye Chippy two weeks in advance, the best fish and chips anywhere in the world and certainly the most ambient atmosphere, served with a smile. Unfortunately this thriving business is now up for sale, a gold mine to the person who snaps it up, because the ladies, who have run it so smoothly in recent years, are moving on to pastures new. Anyone interested?

There’s a video on Diana Jackson’s Author page on Facebook. Why don’t you pop over and say hello:-)

Monday’s post ~ Here Comes the Sun:-)

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November 5, 2012 · 8:20 am

In Answer to the Oxford Mail ~ The Unique Island of Alderney

I changed tack today in my blog post to write a response to Lucy Golding in the Oxford Mail

Channel hopping: Lucy Golding finds Alderney is a world away from commercial-centric holidays

Lucy writes:

“It is the lack of anything recognisable to our over-commercialised, materialistic expectations that makes Alderney so special, a gem of natural beauty with a community spirit so humbling that anywhere else you ever visit will seem hostile by comparison.”

You don’t have WH Smiths on Alderney but you do have the friendly Annie’s Bookshop

You don’t have Costa Coffee but the terraced front of Jack’s at the bottom of Victoria Street is a sun trap and a great place to meet people or watch the little world of Alderney go about its daily business.

You don’t have the Ritz or even a cheap and soulless Travel Inn but instead you have relative luxury at The Braye Beach or a warm welcome and good food at The Harbour Lights or The Belle Vue, not to mention the numerous friendly Bed and Breakfast establishments.

You don’t have Next or even MnS but my Lazy Jack’s sweater and several other t shirts purchases on the island are my favourites and always remind me of Alderney when I snuggle into them at home.

Alderney doesn’t have red squirrels, to my knowledge, but it does have albino hedgehogs, and puffins on the nearby island of Burhou. In fact, if it’s wildlife and nature you’re after, then Alderney is certainly the place to be.

What you don’t have is factories, traffic jams or pollution…. maybe half a dozen cars may pass you when walking along the busiest road from the airport to the town of St Anne.

Having said all this I can assure you that the variety of eateries for a small island include Thai, Indian, Italian, French and good old fashioned English cooking… all of a high quality, often boasting of local produce when they can, and the fish…. mmmmm … Sea Bass to die for!  (The burger bar down by the old harbour uses only island beef!)

Talking of fishing, if you’ve ever been over on the island during the Fishing Festival and gate crashed one of their evening trophy events, then you’ll see Alderney’s welcome at its best. I’ve never accidentally attended a Golfing event but I imagine it is similar… I read that they even have a Sprint and Hill Climb with the Guernsey Cart and Motor Club heading over for the annual event too….. The Schneider Trophy this year too….. are there more…….

If you visit Alderney during one of these events, or even during Alderney Week which Lucy describes, don’t get the impression that it makes the island busy. Bustling and fun yes, but on Alderney, within minutes of the central activities, you can be quite alone, ambling along cliff top walks, lazing on the fantastic beaches or admiring the views of the many fortresses which have guarded the island since Victorian times.

Enjoy! Alderney is only a hop away from Guernsey and a small leap from the mainland, but it’s certainly worlds apart!

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November 17, 2011 · 10:53 am

A late October visit to Alderney

Saye Bay from Fort Albert

Visiting Alderney in late October is quite a different experience but nonetheless a pleasant one. The de-stressing qualities of this usually peaceful island seems to work its magic the moment you land, maybe sooner. Even the anticipation of our stay calms the soul. We were certainly fortunate with the weather and spent Saturday walking to the easterly end of the island, around Fort Albert and down on to Saye Bay, where we sat for an hour in the sunshine admiring the Forts which flaked the sandy bay on either side and staring out into the blue distance, with the occasional intrepid sailing boat sliding by, like a moving mirage in the otherwise still scene.

In fact we only saw one other couple who were walking their dog along the glassy sand where the tide had recently been; footprints quickly dissolving leaving no lasting impression. Next we headed across the deserted campsite to Arch Bay and Corblets Bay where we joined one other family enjoying the simple pleasures of the beach. There we had our picnic, bought fresh from the bakery in St Anne’s earlier that morning, when we had witnessed the early Saturday morning rush hour of at least one car every two or three minutes on their way up Braye Road to do their weekend shopping.

As the lady’s family left the beach I remarked, ‘Beautiful, isn’t it.’

‘Perfection,’ she replied. We need say no more as we glanced out over the sand and glistening rocks towards the lighthouse.

A crowded beach

We continued our walk along the coastal paths to Longis where a few families were dotted across the bay under the brow of the sea defences, an excellent wind shelter, unnecessary today though but sometimes welcome. Our intended destination this time was not the beach but The Barn where we enjoyed a refreshing cup of afternoon tea. We’d just missed lunch but the menu looked appealing. Maybe for another day. It’s always worth remembering The Barn when you are this end of the island. In the summer the campsite has a cafe too, but at this time of year The Barn acts as a little oasis, with its sheltered plant laden courtyard and the cosy rooms of its popular restaurant.

Back in the little town of St Anne that afternoon it was quiet, many of the Georgian shops now closed for the remainder of the weekend. There was still activity at the Fishing Shop, and I mean fishing tackle and the like rather than the fresh fish shop further down Victoria Street. The annual fishing festival was nearing its final moments and people were nipping in and out, I’m not sure what for, but there was certainly an air of excitement. The One Stop was also open and the Book shop around the corner, as was Jack’s, the Bistro cum cafe right at the bottom of Victoria Street, but it was just about to close to prepare the tables for the evening meal. It was also the last day the Alderney Museum was open to the public before closing its doors for winter, often the busiest time behind the scenes for its inspired young curator and band of enthusiastic volunteers who have excellent ideas to weave the museum with the fabric of community life.

That evening we headed to The Moorings down by the harbour for supper, but it appeared that the whole island had turned up too for the end of festival celebration when cups and trophies were handed out and I gather a great time was had by all.

We hadn’t intended to eat at The Diver’s a second night, preferring to choose a different venue each night… The Diver’s on Thursday night when we arrived where we both enjoyed an Alderney burger, good wholesome home cooking; Of course it had to be The Braye Chippy on Friday, a must for any visitor but, since the islanders love it too, it’s essential to book – yes that’s how good it is; Back to the Diver’s on Saturday, gladly taking a table vacated by the multitude of fishermen on their way to the

Speaks for itself

Moorings and finally Sunday lunch at The Harbour Lights where I ate Red Mullet to die for. I had to take a photo of the meal but it was certainly as delicious as it looked. Later that evening I met Bugsy, the owner of the wetfish shop at the bar of The Harbour Lights and he told me he’d caught it at 7 am that very morning.

As always I was so sad to leave on Monday morning, not only the island which has seeped deep into my psyche but many of the islanders too, who made us feel so welcome!

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