Category Archives: Channel Islands

Guernsey- Holiday memories and family connections

St Peter Port

My Great Grandfather was born on the island of Guernsey in 1867. He married my Great Grandmother Harriet Jane from Alderney in The Holy Trinity Church in 1890, before they moved to the mainland and settled in Woolston, Southampton. He returned to the island years later and unfortunately died there during the occupation years in 1943. With such family links it is hardly surprising that Guernsey has always played an important part in our lives.

The first time I visited Guernsey I was just a twinkle in my mother’s eye, but later, as a small child, we stayed at The Fermaine Valley Hotel, set in its own secluded valley and yet well positioned for St Peter Port and all the amenities. I have fond memories of walks along the breathtaking coastal paths and visiting little sandy coves. In those days all we needed was fresh air, sand, sea and a few interesting rock pools to satisfy our curiosity. On a recent visit we lunched at the Fermaine Bay’s terraced restaurant and were impressed with the hotel’s modernised transformation.

Through my eyes as a child, the little ferry to Herm was magical, like being transported to your own desert island, with a shell beach to while away many a happy hour. The longer trip to Sark was just as fun, although I remember looking longingly at the many horse and traps, wondering why ‘our family never did things like that’. We returned to Sark a few years later for a week’s holiday in May, staying at The Aval du Creux. We initially flew to Guernsey, but the transfer by ferry was another unforgettable
experience. As a family of walkers, there was certainly plenty to occupy our time on the island. On the day of our departure the waiters presented us with posies of flowers. ‘Throw them over the side of the ferry as you leave, to promise you’ll return,’ they explained. I’ve only recently fulfilled that promise and Sark has actually changed very little over the years.

I did not return to Guernsey until I was a young adult, when I stayed at a hotel in St Martin’s, which was tucked away down a tiny lane leading towards the stunning cliff top walks. We used a bus for quite a lot of this trip, hiring a car for only one day. The
busses are frequent and the service comprehensive, making all the resorts and places of interest easily accessible. I remember visiting the Pearl and Freesia Centres and the famous tiny shell chapel during this stay.

A few years later, when I was beginning to research for my novel and my parents were delving into our family history, we  booked a dual centre break, staying for three nights on Alderney before flying to Guernsey. We stayed in a hotel on the outskirts of St Peter Port, renting a hire car to travel around the island with ease. It was a busy few days, spending a lot of time in the Records Office, The Priaulx Library, The Guernsey Museum and newspaper archives.

A couple of years after that visit I travelled there once more, only this time it was on my own, taking the slow ferry from Portsmouth. I chose this method of transport to experience the journey my Great Grandparents made all those years ago, making the seven hour ride part of the holiday and my research. I stayed at Les Cothills, which is now a very comfortable and friendly Christian Guest House, especially suitable for a single female traveller.  I would certainly recommend Guernsey as a destination for solo travel; a friend of mine even camped there once, on her own.  I always felt safe, there was plenty to do and many places you could eat and visit without feeling uncomfortable.

We last stayed on Guernsey in 2009 when we were over in The Channel Islands for the book launch of my novel ‘Riduna’.
We journeyed by Fastcat from Poole and camped at Les Fauxquets Valley, a quiet inland site, excellent location and superb facilities.  During this trip we rediscovered Lancresse Bay to the north of the island and Jedburgh Point to the South and generally enjoyed the relaxed freedom that only a camping holiday can give. (I have written an article about camping on Guernsey which was published  on The Visit Guernsey Diary Blog in September) We also enjoyed the cultural experiences of The
Folk Museum in Saumarez Park, Sausmarez Manor and the Victorian Shop in Cornet Street. During our stay we hopped over to Alderney by plane for three nights, the only regular form of transport from Guernsey to Alderney, as far as I know.

Guernsey is one of those places which is special in all the different seasons. The spring flowers are a delight, with white and red campion mingling with blue bells along the coastal walks.  Summer on Guernsey is generally a touch warmer than the UK, being that much further south, and quiet places can easily be discovered, even in its busiest season. The food is excellent and people
friendly, making each stay pleasurable and yet unique.

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Alderney Beaches -a personal view

Here is the last of my summer holiday theme on Alderney. Alderney’s fantastic and undiscovered beaches!

The first long sweeping sandy bay you see by air as you are coming into land at Alderney’s quaint airport is Braye Bay. Sheltered by the harbour and famous Victorian Breakwater it is a haven for sailing boats and so as you stroll along its half a mile stretch in the sunshine, there is a stunning view in any direction from Fort Albert on your right at the mouth of the harbour, to the Breakwater itself. If there is a breeze you can always find a spot nestled amongst the grassy dunes or at the old jetty, The Douglas Quay alongside The Braye Beach hotel’s veranda. 

It would be unfortunate to visit the island without making the effort to walk on passed Fort Albert and on towards Saye Bay (pronounced Soy like the sauce I have recently been told) Those fortunate enough to be camping nearby can enjoy this stunning bay, where the Black rocks are popular for fishing. This has its own natural protection from any sea breezes with rocks jutting out from either end of the pale sand in a horseshoe shape.

You are spoilt for choice as you walk over the ridge or under the tunnel from the campsite to Corblets Bay. There are some well positioned benches where you can enjoy the view of the Lighthouse and bay, a good spot to eat a picnic bought in the baker in St Annes. This is the more isolated 

end of the island and the coastal path to Longis from the other side of the Lighthouse is well worth the effort. For those of you less strenuous you can cut off the corner, taking the road passing the War Memorial and through the golf course. Here there are wonderful views of Braye down on your left and Longis Bay on your right.

Longis Bay is another sweeping sandy bay with Fort de Raz as a centrepiece, with its causeway at low tide. You might think that the sea defences here are quite dramatic until you look into the history and realise that the protective wall, a suntrap and reflector, was built by the Germans during their occupation of the island during the last war. It is near Longis Bay, next to the small garden centre, don’t expect Dobbies here, that you should find The Old Barn Restaurant for Mediterranean style ambiance and refreshments. (It is opening again soon)

Walking behind the garden centre and up towards Essex Castle you can follow the coast cliff top path all the way to  Telegraph Bay. When I was a child it was open to the public but the walk down became too dangerous and it was closed. This is unfortunate because at low tide the little sandy coves below are very beautiful. It could also be because the danger of being cut off by the tide and the difficulty of access makes it too unsafe to restore.  Having struggled down the recently rebuilt steps at Petit Bot Bay on Guernsey and been rewarded tenfold by reaching the wonderful bay below, in some ways it seems a shame that we cannot now reach Telegraph Bay safely. Nevertheless the view from the top is reward enough and close by you can look out towards Les Etac and the gannets colony.

Platte Saline and Crabby Bay look out over towards the Swinge and without the protection of the Breakwater you are open to the elements here. The contrast though, on this side of the island has its own beauty, with the rough inhospitable waters of the Swinge along to Fort Clonque, an imposing fort with a causeway which is also easy to spot as your time on Alderney has come to an end and you take off once more.

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ALDERNEY- WHERE TO EAT? A PERSONAL VIEW

Eating is subjective! As I exclaimed in the staffroom yesterday when trying to concentrate on my paperwork, having ‘enjoyed’ crispbread and ham for lunch, ‘I love food!’

Eating on Alderney is a treat although, on our recent visit, our choice of venues was rather limited by my lovely but conservative, elderly parents. We ate at our hotel, The Harbour Lights on two evenings, enjoying superb meals which boasted of being locally caught, farmed or produced wherever possible. No mean feat on an island three miles long and one and a half miles wide. Fresh fish- mouth watering sea bass and lemon sole, duck and gammon, all with a tiny carbon footprint! (that’s the pigs not the fish?) What more could you ask for? Feeling quite full after ample portions from the generous and talented chef, some of us enjoyed the locally produced ice cream, but the menu was wide and catered for many tastes. We didn’t eat out on the new terraces with a view of Braye Bay, although we did enjoy a coffee and a drink there after the meal.

I had to book three weeks in advance for us to dine at The Braye Chippy and none of us were disappointed. A light hearted evening was enjoyed by our party, joined by friends who live on Alderney, and having waited two years for the experience (last year we waited until staying on the island to book and were too late!) the food exceeded our expectations. You can take your own wine, which we didn’t know about, but fortunately our island friends came to the rescue there. I cannot answer for the others but my plaice was delicious, so much so that i’m now on crispbread for my sins!  

On our other evening we took a nostalgic walk to The Marais Hall. A relative, who still lives on Alderney and I don’t wish to embarrass him by sharing his name, used to run it, and we spent many a happy evening there when I was young, odd since my parents rarely go to a pub here in England. The food is reasonably priced and very good. I enjoyed a curry but others in the party chose steak pie and fish pie. On another occasion we enjoyed their wonderful fish soup, a hearty lunch to sustain you for a long afternoon walk (or a nap!)

We also enjoyed a couple of lovely light lunches at Jack’s at the bottom of Victoria Street, where it was pleasant to eat outside, watching the comings and goings up the street. Here I met the friendly group of St Annes bellringers but that’s another story.

On our last visit we partook of several meals at The Moorings, popular with locals (a good sign) and the sailing fraternity. They cater for many tastes from light snacks to a three course meal, which you can eat overlooking Braye Bay.

On previous visits to Alderney we have been delighted by meals at the Belle Vue, spoilt ourselves by a candlelit dinner at The Braye Beach Hotel, enjoyed pub food at The Diver’s- Who is that guy with the headgear sitting in the corner by the way? and discovered the lovely haven of Mediterranean style charm at The Old Barn at Longy Bay(which I am assured is opening again this summer- I do hope so because it is a refreshing place to find whilst exploring the far end of the island. (If not, the island’s Garden Centre close by could always open for tea, like they do here in the UK?) For the time being, if you’re in need of an icecream or drink while exploring the far end of the island, there’s always the camp shop at Saye open in the afternoons. Nothing is far away though. Talking of The Old Barn, we went there when I was young and I remember trying whitebait for the first time and i’m afraid i’m hooked. (If you’ll forgive the pun!)

Back to where to eat on Alderney, we have yet to try the Indian, Pizza or Thai, all of which i’m informed are very good, and there are two select restaurants near the harbour -‘The First and Last’ and ‘Bumps’ if you wish to go out for that treat for a special occasion.

To sum up the eating experience on Alderney, ‘It’s great!’

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