Category Archives: Virtual tour of Fife

Lower Largo to Elie ~ A Pause for Reflection on the Fife Coastal Path

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Elie ~ Fife

The walk between Lower Largo and Elie is at first wild and wonderful; a long sandy rock strewn beach, a nature reserve, shell bay and the hill you see in the photo above, where we looked back and reflected on ‘life ~ past, present and future’ as we gazed back over the coastal path already traversed from The Forth Bridge. (We could see as far as Pettycur)

There is an option to take the challenge of the Elie Chain Link Walk. Here James Carron takes you step by step. For me the daunting prospect was of the mind rather than of a physical nature in The Healing Paths of Fife but was a satisfying achievement nonetheless.

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Earlsferry

It was at Earlsferry, where travellers from the south, maybe even from the Holy Island (Lindisfarne)  in Northumberland, once ferried from North Berwick across the mouth of the Forth to the Fife coast on their way to St Andrews, maybe. It was walking here that I began to be aware of a presence alongside me quite, different from the many characters who talked to me along the way. They didn’t speak to me but I knew that they were there, every step of the way.

Elie is a lovely spot. A sandy harbour where they play cricket in the summer, so I’ve been told.

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Volcanic lava leaves geological signs of Fife’s ancient past, when the land was not as peaceful and hospitable as it is today.

What does Elie have to offer the weary walker? Well there’s the Ship Inn with a decking beside the harbour for idyllic sunny days; The Station Pub in the wee main street, a memento of a time when a railway actually ran to Elie, and a Deli which makes rolls up for you to order for a delicious picnic at one of the many beauty spots near the harbour. There’s even a small harbour cafe for ices and beach fare.

Elie is certainly well worth a visit, to while away a few hours, and it is the beginning of the region on Fife called East Neuk, renowned for its quaint fishing villages.

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What’s in a name? The Walk Inn, West Wemyss

DSCN5011[1].JPGAfter visiting East Wemyss Caves (my last post ) one of my friends suggested popping in to The Walk Inn in West Wemyss. I cheered at her mention of the name because this cafe, once run by the community of West Wemyss, was a regular haunt for my husband and I during our first stay in Fife back in 2015. It certainly featured in From Redundancy to Rejuvenation, which now forms part one of The Healing Paths of Fife.

I particularly recall their Cullen Skink, a local haddock and potato soup which is not only delicious, but a meal in itself.

A couple of years ago we popped back to West Wemyss and the cafe had been split into a local pub downstairs and a cafe bistro upstairs renamed The Urban Pantry.

Sadly, when we visited this wee coastal village once more during last winter for a stroll – a place I call the Portmerrion of the east, unfortunately it was all closed down.

Thus, I was really pleased to find that the cafe had reopened recently under its original name ‘The Walk Inn’ and I wish them every success. It is a perfect break between Dysart and Buckhaven and it certainly has rejuvenated West Wemyss, breathing life into the place for passers by and locals alike.

Here’s their Facebook Page.

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A visit to Wemyss Caves

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Court Cave

Continuing my tour of the Fife Coast I was pleased to see on Twitter last Friday that Wemyss Caves were having an open day. Rounding up two good friends we headed towards East Wemyss and a happy group of enthusiastic volunteers greeted us, handing us a leaflet of activities laid on to both inform and entertain.

The Court Cave was our first stopping point where we joined a guide who led us into the cavern, pointing out various intriguing carved pictures and shapes on the cave walls. She explained that we can only guess the meaning of the creatures and symbols, which were almost certainly Pictish in origin.

Click HERE for the Wemyss Caves website with more detailed information.

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Doo Cave

In our next cave, the Doo Cave, we were entertained by a storyteller; quite an atmospheric setting for such scary tales. At the back of the cave rectangular cut out shelves lined the walls. Were they for the doos ~ pigeons as the name of the cave suggests, or for skeletons of their departed? Intriguing!

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MacDuff’s Castle

Climbing the steps to MacDuff’s castle we encountered archery, apothecary, chain mail production and wool spinning. The volunteers were enthusiastic to demonstrate and it was a great pull for the children, but interesting for us too. I remembering being in awe of this castle on our first visit as suddenly the ‘fictional’ character of Shakespeare’s Macbeth became all so very real.

We didn’t continue down to Jonathan’s Cave. The climb was too steep for one of my friends, although we were helped by seats both on the climb up and down. We will leave that pleasure for another day, but were impressed by the organisation of the day and the hard work put into it by the group of volunteers.

Which cave did I visit on my walk along the coastal path in The Healing Paths of Fife? Almost certainly The Court Cave.

Which stranger from the past did I encounter?

I first met the gypsies I believe, although I did not call them by their title in my book, but I was certainly rescued by  King James V, disguised as the ‘Guidman of Ballengeich’ !

 

 

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